“The best artist has that thought alone which is contained within the marble shell; The sculptor’s hand can only break the spell to free the figures slumbering in the stone.”– Michelangelo.
That was what we have seen on the runways of Milan. An exceptional collection of designs which are filled with joy and beauty.
Alessandro Michele’s autumn winter 2016 collection for Gucci is a harmonious union of renaissance beauty with modern romance. The Renaissance served as an immeasurable source of inspiration for Michele who loves the creativity of that time. Its been only a year since he took reins of the iconic luxury brand and revamped its image from sexuality to sensuality with a touch of refined classic Italian beauty. It embodies eccentric ,care free and colorful fashion contradicting the brand’s traditional feminine look . The collection vacillates between 70’s punk style ,80’s shoulders ,prints,colors and textures of renaissances which blends well with the energy and attitude of the street style . It’s just bold and beautiful.
Miuccia Prada describes her women in fall winter 2016 collection as a ‘vagabond’. She travels from the Victorian era wearing a corset to 50’s wearing full skirts and dresses in silk. A woman is more complex than a man. She plays the role of a worker,mother,lover etc. This collection is a collage of those multiple angles and emotional predicaments. Her collection speaks of the power of individuality and empowerment . She used the French Revolution calendar on the garments to describe the huge upheaval in fashion . Her collection also includes beautifully crafted military coats.The midnight blue velvet cocktail dress creates an imagery of 1940’s Hollywood. The collection is extraordinary.
A month ago Einstein’s Theory of Relativity about gravitational waves was proved. Karl Lagerfeld paid a tribute to Albert Einstein by envisioning gravitational waves in this collection. From undulating leather around thigh high boots ,wavy patterns on the fur coats to ruffled blouses you name it. The collection is exuberant in detail(floral motifs), fabric(jacquards) and texture (fur).
DOLCE & GABBANA:
Frozen’s Elsa and Anna served as an inspiration for designer duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana .The autumn winter collection is an abstract Disney wardrobe.The collection ranges from Cinderella’s ball room gown, to sequins and patchwork on dresses that show mice,seven dwarves and Dolce’s cat Zambia.The black lace widowed dress and shattered mirror resembles evil stepmother . The fabulous jackets which reminds us of Prince Charming’s Ruritanian regalia and toy soldiers. All in all its a Disney’s playbook designed by Dolce & Gabbana.
Minimalism comes to Milan. Tomas Maier’s collection for Bottega Veneta is tailored and wearable luxe filled with understated beauty. The long cashmere coats and knits commend authority whilst the leopard print,lurex and sequins imply glamour. The collection represents a woman who is grown-up, ladylike and mysterious.
Photo Credit : Yannis Vllamos, Monica Feudi- Vogue
“Give me time and I’ll give you a revolution”– Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen is my all time favorite designer. His work was idyllic, rebellious and extravagant. One of my favorite shows was in Spring Summer 2001 titled VOSS, where the models strutted in a glass enclosure filled with butterflies and moths. Now, six years after his death, the brand finally came home. Sarah Burton’s collection is about exploration of dreamscapes between reverie and nightmare.The show started of with black tailored fine leather coats, hand painted with flowers by a floral artist and transitioned to lacy bras,black tulle dresses,knits and satin duvet jackets.The collection is exceptional. This is a homecoming for the brand. This is where it belongs.
Erdem Moralioglu is known for his beautiful evening dresses. His collection was inspired by surrealism of 40’s hollywood glamour. Most of his collection resonate with movies “Rebecca” and “All about Eve” . He describes his woman as a working woman who aspires to be a hollywood actress. The darkness and dishelved romance of Hitchcock movies is felt in his collection.
Roksanda Illincic’s collection is an amalgamation of retro hippie colors of 70’s and utilitarian silhouettes of 40’s . Her collection is inspired by the movie “ The Night Porter “ and the work of renowned fashion photographer Deborah Turbeville. Her collection is sensual. Roksanda’s forte is dresses. She debuted her purses this season which added a polished look to her collection.
Simone Rocha :
Simone Rocha is one of the rising talents in London Fashion scene. This collection is an ode to Simone’s pregnancy and her experience with motherhood. Rocha experimented on the silhouettes and the fabrics . The colors range from nudes to romantic reds. There is also a level of intensity in the dark dresses,black bows which personifies Goth that is ruling this season.
Marta Marques & Paulo Almeida are the Portuguese born London based designers. They are known for their innovation with denim. Marques Almeida is the best example of organically grown business. Their collection mirrors the style of the real girl.Their casting included friends and family. The collection echoes ease from tie-dye slip dresses, banana yellow fur coats and gingham shirts. The collection was remarkable. The duo never lost the touch of reality and pushed their boundaries.
Photo Credit:Kim Weston Arnold,Yannis Vlamos- Vogue