“Fashion is a reflection of our times”– Anna Wintour.
Everyone thinks of Bay Area as a tech giant but who would have thought that it would inspire New York Fashion Week’s best Fall Winter 2016 collection. Kate and Laura Mulleavy both grads of UC Berkeley recently made a trip to Berkeley’s Cafe Trieste. A cafe in which Francis Ford Coppola penned his script for the movie “The God Father”.
This inspired them to create a collection based on The God Father ’s wedding scene and the Art Nouveau architecture of San Francisco. This collection is a dream vs reality, light vs dark which is the true element of the mafia wedding. The romance of lace trimmed ,flower covered dresses and the magical embellishments is a walking dream.
Designers Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez drew inspiration from Frank Stella. The collection is about restraint and release. Its all about layers and lace.
Shades vary from neutrals to neons. A-line silhouette,waist cinching ,criss cross straps are the common denominators. Use of technical knits is what you see in this collection.
Hood By Air :
Shayne Oliver a Minnesota born, Brooklyn raised designer started his label Hood By Air(best know as HBA) in 2006. A recipient of LVMH prize, his collection is called “Pilgrimage”. He is best know for his bold logos, premium materials and futuristic silhouettes.
The models strutted around in PVC stilettos and colonial fashion wigs. Slava Mogutin’s walk on runway represents the current refugee crisis in Europe. It felt like humans are transmigrating to post revolutionary future. Its a brilliant collection.
Marc Jacobs :
The return of Goth . Cobwebs ,black cats and witchy patches you name it everything gothic is seen in his collection.
Its like reminiscing Morticia Adams (Adams Family). Polka dots and pink make up for the missing girlish element. The voluminous layered skirts, crocheted collars, crinis and heavy embellishments were outstanding.
The highlight of the show was Lady Gaga and Molly Bair dressed as an empress of Goth standing on the chessboard.
The Row label is minimalist woman’s best friend. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen designed the pieces with finest of the fabrics in neutral palettes.
The craft and beauty of the materials is quiet evident in this collection. The astrakhan coat is my favorite.