5 Best Collections in MFW 2016

“The best artist has that thought alone which is contained within the marble shell; The sculptor’s hand can only break the spell to free the figures slumbering in the stone.”– Michelangelo.

 

That was what we have seen on the runways of Milan. An exceptional collection of designs which are filled with joy and beauty.

 

GUCCI :

 

Alessandro Michele’s autumn winter 2016 collection for Gucci is a harmonious union of renaissance beauty with modern romance.  The Renaissance served as an immeasurable source of inspiration for Michele who loves the creativity of that time. Its been only a year since he took reins of the iconic luxury brand and revamped its image from sexuality to sensuality with a touch of refined classic Italian beauty. It embodies eccentric ,care free and colorful fashion contradicting the brand’s traditional feminine look . The collection vacillates between 70’s punk style ,80’s shoulders ,prints,colors and textures of renaissances which blends well with the energy and attitude of the street style . It’s just bold and beautiful.

 

  

 

PRADA:

 

Miuccia Prada  describes her women in fall winter 2016 collection as a ‘vagabond’. She travels from the Victorian era wearing a corset to 50’s wearing full skirts and dresses in silk. A woman is more complex than a man. She plays the role of a worker,mother,lover etc. This collection is a collage of those multiple angles and emotional predicaments. Her collection speaks of the power of individuality and empowerment . She used the French Revolution calendar on the garments to describe the huge upheaval in fashion . Her collection also includes beautifully crafted military coats.The midnight blue velvet cocktail dress creates an imagery of 1940’s Hollywood. The collection is extraordinary.

 

  

 

FENDI:

 

A month ago Einstein’s Theory of Relativity  about gravitational waves  was proved.  Karl Lagerfeld paid a tribute to Albert Einstein by envisioning  gravitational waves in this collection. From undulating leather around thigh high boots ,wavy patterns on the fur coats to ruffled blouses you name it.  The collection is exuberant  in detail(floral motifs), fabric(jacquards) and texture (fur).

 

  

 

DOLCE & GABBANA:

 

Frozen’s Elsa and Anna served as an inspiration for designer duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana .The autumn winter collection is an abstract  Disney  wardrobe.The collection ranges from Cinderella’s ball room gown, to sequins and patchwork on dresses that  show mice,seven dwarves and Dolce’s cat Zambia.The black lace widowed dress and shattered mirror resembles evil stepmother . The fabulous jackets which reminds us of Prince Charming’s Ruritanian regalia and toy soldiers. All in all its a Disney’s playbook designed by Dolce & Gabbana.

 

  

 

Bottega Veneta:

 

Minimalism comes to Milan.  Tomas Maier’s collection for Bottega Veneta is tailored and wearable luxe filled with understated beauty. The long cashmere coats and knits commend authority whilst the leopard print,lurex and sequins  imply glamour. The collection represents a  woman who is grown-up, ladylike and mysterious.

 

  

 

Photo Credit :  Yannis Vllamos, Monica Feudi- Vogue

5 Best Collections of LFW 2016

“Give me time and I’ll give you a revolution”– Alexander McQueen.

Alexander McQueen:

 

Alexander McQueen is my all time favorite designer. His work was idyllic, rebellious and extravagant. One of my favorite shows was in Spring Summer 2001 titled VOSS, where the models strutted in a glass enclosure filled with butterflies and moths. Now, six years after his death, the brand  finally came home.  Sarah Burton’s collection is about exploration of dreamscapes between reverie and nightmare.The show started of with black tailored fine leather coats, hand painted with flowers by a floral artist and transitioned to lacy bras,black tulle dresses,knits and  satin duvet jackets.The collection is exceptional. This is a homecoming for the brand. This is where it belongs.

 

  

 

Erdem:

 

Erdem Moralioglu is known for his beautiful evening dresses. His collection was inspired by surrealism of 40’s hollywood glamour. Most of his collection resonate with movies “Rebecca”  and “All about Eve” .  He describes his woman as a working woman who aspires to be a hollywood actress. The darkness and dishelved romance  of Hitchcock movies is felt in his collection.

 

  

 

Roksanda:

 

Roksanda Illincic’s collection is an amalgamation of retro hippie colors of 70’s and utilitarian silhouettes of 40’s .  Her collection is inspired by the movie “ The Night Porter “ and the work of renowned fashion photographer Deborah Turbeville. Her collection is sensual. Roksanda’s  forte is dresses. She debuted her purses this season which added a polished look to her collection.

 

  

 

Simone Rocha :

 

Simone Rocha is one of the rising talents in London Fashion scene. This collection is an ode to Simone’s pregnancy and her experience with motherhood. Rocha experimented on the silhouettes and the fabrics . The colors range from nudes to romantic reds. There is also a level of intensity in the dark dresses,black bows which personifies Goth that is ruling this season.

 

  

 

Marques ‘Almeida:

 

Marta Marques & Paulo Almeida are the Portuguese born London based designers. They are known for their innovation with denim. Marques Almeida is the best example of organically grown business. Their collection mirrors the style of the real girl.Their casting included friends and family. The collection echoes ease from  tie-dye slip dresses, banana yellow fur coats and gingham shirts. The collection was remarkable. The duo  never lost the touch of reality and pushed their boundaries.

 

  

 

Photo Credit:Kim Weston Arnold,Yannis Vlamos- Vogue

5 Best Collections of NYFW 2016

“Fashion is a reflection of our times”– Anna Wintour.

Rodarte:

 

Everyone thinks of Bay Area as a tech giant but who would have thought that it would inspire New York Fashion Week’s best Fall Winter 2016 collection.  Kate and Laura Mulleavy both grads of UC Berkeley recently made a trip to Berkeley’s Cafe Trieste.  A cafe in which Francis Ford Coppola penned his script for the movie  “The God Father”.

 

 

 

This inspired them to create a collection based on The God Father ’s wedding scene  and the  Art Nouveau architecture of San Francisco. This collection is a dream vs reality, light vs dark which is  the true element of the mafia wedding. The romance of lace trimmed ,flower covered dresses and the magical embellishments is a walking dream.

 

 

 

Proenza Schouler:

 

Designers Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez drew inspiration from Frank Stella.  The collection is about restraint and release. Its all about layers and lace.

 

 

 

 

Shades vary from neutrals to neons. A-line silhouette,waist cinching ,criss cross straps  are the common denominators. Use of  technical knits is what you see in this collection.

 

 

 

 

Hood By Air :

 

Shayne Oliver a Minnesota born, Brooklyn raised designer started his label Hood By Air(best know as HBA) in 2006.  A recipient of LVMH prize, his collection is called “Pilgrimage”. He is best know for his bold logos, premium materials and futuristic silhouettes.

 

 

 

The models strutted around in PVC stilettos and colonial fashion wigs. Slava Mogutin’s walk on runway  represents the current refugee crisis in Europe. It felt like humans are transmigrating to post revolutionary future. Its a brilliant collection.

 

 

 

 Marc Jacobs :

 

The return of  Goth . Cobwebs ,black cats  and witchy patches you name it everything gothic is seen in his collection.

 

 

 

Its like reminiscing Morticia Adams (Adams Family). Polka dots and pink make up for the missing girlish element. The voluminous layered  skirts, crocheted collars, crinis and heavy embellishments were outstanding.

 

 

 

The highlight of the show was Lady Gaga and Molly Bair  dressed as an empress of Goth standing on the chessboard.

 

 

 

 The Row:

 

The Row label is minimalist woman’s best friend. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen designed the pieces with finest of the fabrics in neutral palettes.

 

 

 

The craft and beauty of the materials is quiet evident in this collection. The astrakhan  coat is my favorite.

 

 

 

Credit: Vogue

Conscious Coffee- Part One

“Coffee- the favorite drink of the civilized world.”- Thomas Jefferson.

 

Every morning millions of people around the world wakeup to a morning cup of coffee. #Coffee is one of the most trending hashtags on Instagram whether it may be a latte from a hipster cafe or a regular cup of Jo.

 

One day as I was browsing in the grocery aisle to buy coffee, I came across a bunch of different brands. Some of these said Bird friendly, Rain Forest Alliance & Fair Trade affiliated. I thought these are environmental friendly. I decided to give a try even though they are tad bit expensive than my regular coffee. The next day morning when I had a cup of coffee its different and tasted better. So I decided to delve deep into where those beans came from.

A Little History:

Coffee was first discovered in Ethiopia by an animal herder Kaldi. He noticed that his goats became very active through out the day after eating certain berries.

 

He took those berries to the local monastery where the monk prepared a drink which helped him stay active during his evening prayers. The knowledge is shared among the communities. Soon the coffee trade began between Africa and Arabia.  In Arabia the coffee beans were first roasted and brewed. Coffee was later introduced into India and Europe in 16th Century.   The 1773 Boston Tea Party changed American consumption of coffee forever.

About the Beans:

Coffea arabica(Arabica) and Coffea canephora (Robusta Beans) are two main species grown in the coffee trade today.

Arabica beans are rich in flavor ,aroma and quality compared to the robusta beans. They are grown  in shade grown on hilly terrains. They are vulnerable to diseases and pest manifestations. The yield is low.  Arabica Beans contribute to 70% of the coffee production.

Coffee canephora(Robusta) beans have high caffeine content  low in quality, it tastes bitter and burnt.  The high caffeine content makes them resistant to disease and pests. They are grown in warmer climates, flat lands and the yield is 3 times more than Arabica beans. Robusta beans account for 20-30 % of the coffee trade. These beans are used to make Instant coffee. Vietnam is the largest producer of robusta beans and Starbucks is its undisputed largest purchaser.

 

Farming & Processing :

The traditional method of producing coffee is to plant seeds in the soil directly before the rainy season. Half of these seeds don’t sprout.Brazil adopted a more efficient method by planting the seedlings which are grown in the nurseries for 6-12 months before being sowed in coffee plantations.

Before reaching the roasters coffee berries undergo thorough processing. Coffee berries are picked based on ripeness which is a more labor intensive method. They are also strip picked and harvested regardless of ripeness.  After harvesting they are processed either by dry method or wet method.

Dry Method:

The ancient method of processing coffee uses dry method. The harvested berries are cleaned by winnowing to remove dirt and damaged berries.  They are then sun dried and sent to a mill. In large plantations they let the beans dry in the sun for a few days and then they use machine drying. Those beans are sent to mill for hulling , grading and bagging.  This is practiced in Brazil, Ethiopia,India, Haiti & Paraguay where Arabica beans are produced.

Wet method:

The berries are sorted by ripeness and the flesh on the berries is removed with the help of a machine.  The seeds are then fermented  and  washed thoroughly. This produces massive waste water. The beans are dried on patios and sun beds. Later sent to mills for hulling and bagging.

 

Roasting :

The green coffee is then sent to roasting. Roasting influences and alters the taste of the coffee. The light roast coffee has high caffeine content ,aromatic flavors of its origin with complex acidity. Medium roast coffee has muted acidity.

Dark Roast has no original  aroma, acidity  and the roast character dominates the coffee. Contrary to the popular belief dark roast coffee has less caffeine compared to light roast.

 

Many opine that the coffee sold at Starbucks , Peets is over roasted. This over roasting of beans mask original characteristics and inferior quality.

Small boutique roasters don’t over roast their beans.  They also specialize in high quality beans and roast them to their suited roast profile. This helps them bring out full flavor of the beans.

 

Encourage your local roasters and get a high quality coffee for your buck.

Credit:tumblr, unsplash

White Russian Cupcakes

Inspired by “The Great British Baking Show”, I decided to bake this weekend. I have the perfect occasion, party at a friend’s house. I started “Pinteresting” and  narrowed it down to White Russian cupcakes. This is pretty easy to make as every ingredient is available at home except for the Kahlua.

White Russian cupcakes are based on “White Russian Cocktail”. The drink is made with vodka, coffee liqueur (Kahlua) and cream. It is the signature drink of “the Dude”in the movie “The Big Lebowski”.

Ingredients:
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup sugar
6 tablespoons butter, softened
1 large egg and 1 egg white
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup milk
1/8 cup Vodka
1/4 cup Kahlua, divided

Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a cupcake pan with paper liners.

In a large bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside. In a separate bowl beat together the sugar and butter until combined using a hand mixer. Add egg and egg white, one at a time. Then add the vanilla, Vodka, and 1/8 cup of Kahlua. Gradually add the flour mixture in three additions, alternating with the milk in two additions, ending with the flour mixture.

Bake 18 -20 minutes, or until the toothpick inserted in the middle of a cupcakes comes out clean. While the cupcakes are still warm, brush the tops with the remaining 1/8 cup Kahlua. Remove from pan and cool completely on a wire rack before frosting.

Kahlua Frosting
1 stick of butter, softened
2-3 cups powdered sugar(depending on your sweet tooth)
pinch of salt
3 – 4 tablespoons Kahlua

Beat butter until creamy. Add salt. Add powdered sugar 1 cup at a time, mix until combined. Add Kahlua 1 tablespoon at a time until desired consistency is reached.

I  grated  Ghirardelli semi sweet chocolate on the frosting  that gave a texture to the cupcakes.

I was way too generous with the vodka and Kahlua in the batter and in the frosting. I name them “ The Crocked Cupcakes”.The vodka gave an extra kick to the cupcakes . “The Dudes” really loved it.

Staples in Slow Fashion 2

“The difference between style and fashion is quality.”– Giorgio Armani

 

Coats:

 

Coats are made of silhouettes which are timeless. Its an investment you will never regret.A wool coat for the quiescent winter months. Hobbs London has beautiful coats. Labels that make timeless silhouettes include  A.P.C, Stella McCartney and Saint Laurent.

 

 

Designed for the wet weather of UK, trench coat soon became a staple in everyday style. The trench coat is also regarded as the transitional coat. The art of trench belongs to Burberry alone.

 

 

 Shoes:

 

“Give a girl the right shoes,  and she can conquer the world” – Marilyn Manroe. I totally agree with her.

 

A classic pair of ballet flats are go to for any woman. They are highly functional and durable. Repetto ballet flats are stylish and yet efficient.

 

 

The essential footwear for the dormant cold months would be the boots(ankle & all weather ).  I have a penchant for ankle boots. All weather boots are highly utilitarian.

 

For a night in town invest in a leather/suede black pumps. M.Gemi has a comfortable leather pumps.

 

 

Accessories:

 

For a lean closet  quality handbag is a necessity.  Invest in a bag which lasts,budget friendly and suits your lifestyle, and also in a durable wallet. Long champ ‘s Le Pliage, Tory Burch’s Perry Tote & Mulberry Bayswater Tote are few options.

 

Every “It girl” adds scarf to her outfit no brainer. Choose a cashmere scarf for winter and  a printed scarf for spring and summer.  Lora Piana for Cashmere Scarves.

Revel in the classic jewelry like pearls but try adding pieces that are in season to your outfit. It will make you look ultra cool.

 

 

Credit: Style Du Monde

Staples in Slow Fashion

“The turnover of fashion is just so quick and so throwaway, and I think that is a big part of the problem. There is no longevity.“

-Alexander McQueen

 

For those of us who want to embrace slow fashion and lean closet, here is a  check list of essentials to start building  your wardrobe.

 

 Basics:

 

I would prefer to have three high quality basic t-shirts which I can wear until they fall apart.T-shirts and tanks in white,gray & black. I personally like Madewell Tees, if you want to go for a high end tee Acne studios make really good ones.

 

 

Tops:

 

A silk blouse, a white button up shirt, breton stripe shirt  and a cashmere sweater . Everlane makes a really nice silk blouses. I personally love Equipment blouses.

 

 

 

A crisp white shirt brings a sophisticated feel to the outfit . Rochelle Behrens makes beautiful button up shirts, if you are ready for a splurge I recommend AnneFontaine’s Larry Blouse. Breton stripe shirt is considered a neutral as it goes with any outfit .SaintJames sailor shirts are the best, but you can buy at ME&EMas well.

 

 

 My favorite top is a cashmere sweater. Reformation is making beautiful cashmere sweaters under $100. To  indulge in luxury, the knitwear I would go for is  Isabel Marant sweaters.

 

 

Bottoms:

 

Fit is your friend when is comes to bottoms.Try to invest in pants which are in style not the ones which are trending. The staples would be a pair of skinny,cigarette and boyfriend jeans which are above your ankles(not capris & culottes).The same goes for tailored pants.  Frame Denim, Paige, and Citizens of Humanity comes to my mind when speaking of denim. A pair of dress pants makes your outfit look chic.  Avenue Montaigne makes beautiful pants which suits all shapes and sizes.

 

 

Dress:

 

A dress makes a woman look feminine. Its a must have in every woman’s closet.When Vogue published Coco Chanel’s little black dress in 1926 it was called “Chanel’s Ford” as it was accessible to every class. Its elegance still prevails. Navy is also another option.

 

 

Jackets :

 

A denim jacket is a must for those warm sunny days and cold evenings.

A leather jacket is versatile. Its perfect for work,happy hours and weekends. IRO is a classic .A well tailored blazer gives you a polished look. Theory does great blazers so does Topshop. Choose  colors which work well with  your skin tone and climate.

 

 

to be continued…….

Credit: Style Du Monde